Oh to be rich and in Phoenix, down the road from Taliesin West.
Phoenix is a sprawl of suburbs, sand and cacti. Before air-conditioning, it was a small town. Now it hosts refugees from the Rust Belt, Bible Belt and Latin America.
I begin my exploration of Route 66 on Good Friday. The destination is Laughlin, an oasis of sin on the Colorado River. It is situated in the sliver of Nevada between Arizona and California. The radio talkback shows are in proselytizing mode. The religious connotations of this journey are thrown into stark relief as I leave the last vestiges of civilization behind me and enter the Mojave Desert.